Point Reyes National Seashore: Tomales Point

October 27, 2013

Soundtrack:

• Bob Dylan -- Desire
• Pearl Jam -- Lightning Bolt

I've been planning a trip out to Point Reyes for over a month.  I've had to put it off due to the government fiasco and one or two other things that have come up.  The elk are in rut in September and October, which makes it an interesting time to visit the Tule Elk Reserve out on Tomales Point.

White Gulch, Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

It turns out I caught the tail end of the whole rut thing.  The harems look like they've all been established.  There was no fighting or even any bugling.  It was a little disappointing in that sense.  However, I got as close as I've ever been--or particularly want to be--in the wild and I got a ton of pictures that I am happy with, not to mention I enjoyed a beautiful hike through one of my favorite places, so all in all it worked out just fine.

Tomales Point, Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

Pierce Ranch

The hike across the elk reserve starts at Pierce Ranch and ends four and a half miles North on the tip of Tomales Point.  It's a relatively easy hike with a couple of small hills.  There's a pond about three miles out and I had decided that would be my destination.  I've hiked out to the end of the trail before and it's pretty cool, but I'd have to race the sun to pull that off on this trip and I wanted to take my time and try to get some good pictures of the animals and scenery.

Northern Harrier -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

The first group of elk I saw was at White Gulch, which is about a half mile into the hike.  The elk were pretty far off and there are signs there asking people to stay on the trail, so viewing the elk wasn't very interesting.  The docent there said he estimated there were about forty elk.  He also told me he'd seen about a dozen males up at the pond.  I didn't spend a long time there since the elk were too far off to get good pictures and headed up the trail.  I soon spotted a northern harrier, which I'd end up spending a good amount of energy on trying to get a good picture of.  That rascal never was still for long.  He was hunting a certain area, though, so I got a few chances at him.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

I encountered the second group of elk about a mile up the trail.  They caught me off guard.  I had gone off the trail in search of the harrier, and when I turned around I saw them coming up over the hill on the other side of the trail.  What a rush!  They hadn't been there fifteen minutes before when I'd gone after that darned bird, and they were walking right toward me.  Of course, I panicked a bit.  I had no place to go.  I moved back to the trail at a bit of an angle, as if the brown strip of dirt would provide some type of protection.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

The elk stopped and stood around for a bit.  They were standing maybe thirty yards away from me.  I could easily hear them snorting and breathing over the sound of the wind and surf.  I was excited to be so close.  Then they turned and started heading for the trail.  My trail.  My only protection.  Crikey.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

They wandered off down the hill and I went on my way.  I was still catching glimpses of the harrier now and then.  I was also able to watch a few red-tailed hawks as the rode the winds blowing in from the ocean.  They're able to stay basically in one place when the winds blows hard, which it always seems to do out here on the Point.  I didn't see any more elk until I got to the pond.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

The Old Man

There were about two dozen male elk down at the watering hole.  I think I recognized last year's King of the Pond.  He had a proud air about him, but obviously had lost his mojo with the ladies.  Happens to the best of us.  He was The Man last year, though.  The other bulls wouldn't even look at him.  If he stood up, they turned and faced the other direction.  I was a little late to see this sort of carrying on, I guess.

I sat down by the side of the trail and had a little snack with the elk.  I had to sit carefully, that place is covered with poison oak.  It wasn't the most exciting food, just a chocolate chip Cliff Bar, but there's something about just stopping and letting the quiet air get a hold of you.  As I settled in, the elk went on about their business.  I could hear them chewing on the grass.  I watched them eat and I watched the vultures and crows flying around and for a moment I got that fleeting sense of timelessness that you can only get in places like this, and only once you've stopped doing anything at all but breath.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

As I got up to leave the sun broke through the clouds and the field was suddenly glowing in the light.  I was back in photographer mode.  It's amazing how a scene can change in look so quickly.  I don't think this is something I'd have even noticed a few years ago.  I shot a few more pictures and then started heading back down the trail.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

I didn't see a lot of elk on the walk back.  Instead, I watched the light show going on out over the ocean as beams of light fought their way through the clouds.  It was quite a show.

Tomales Point, Point Reyes National Seashore, CA

It's tough to beat a hike like this.  There's nothing like getting close to big animals like that.  The people out there were pretty cool, too.  I didn't see anyone harassing the elk or trying to get inappropriately close.  A great day, all in all.

Tule Elk -- Point Reyes National Seashore, CA